Philodendron 'White Wizard'

White Wizard

Family
Araceae
Native to
Mexico to tropical America and the Caribbean
Habit
Climber

Where it comes from

Unknown, and unusually so. No introducer, no nursery, no country, no date — not in Kew’s records, not at IPNI, not in the International Aroid Society’s cultivar registry, and not in any plant patent.12 Every source that addresses the question says the hybridiser is unknown and nothing was filed. That is the finding, rather than a gap in the looking.

It is usually sold as Philodendron erubescens ‘White Wizard’, and that attribution is not documented either. Kew accepts Philodendron erubescens K.Koch & Augustin, described in 1854–55 and endemic to Colombia — POWO gives no other native country and records no synonyms at all.3 But nothing above the retail tier connects this cultivar to that species. The clearest evidence is a patent application derived from the closely related ‘White Princess’, which states its parentage as self-pollination of “an unidentified selection of Araceae Philodendron White Princess” — an applicant with every reason to name a species declining to.4

There is a neat illustration of how the attribution got its authority. Wikipedia lists ‘White Wizard’ and ‘White Princess’ as P. erubescens cultivars and cites a Clemson extension fact sheet. That fact sheet names twelve philodendron cultivars and none of them is white.5 The hobby’s settled fact rests on a miscitation. This page therefore calls the plant Philodendron ‘White Wizard’ and leaves the species out.

Naming and description

The three white philodendrons are constantly confused, and the reliable way to tell them apart is not the leaf. Leaf variegation fluctuates between leaves and with light; the stem and petiole do not.

  • ‘White Wizard’ — green stem, green petiole, and no red, pink or purple anywhere on the plant. The variegation comes in large sectoral blocks on broad, rounded, heart-shaped leaves, the biggest of the three.
  • ‘White Knight’ — deep burgundy to purple-brown stem and petiole, streaked white, never plain green.
  • ‘White Princess’ — green stem, but pink on the petiole edges and in new growth, and the narrowest leaves of the three, closer to a spear than a heart.

So: pink means Princess, dark burgundy means Knight, entirely green means Wizard.678

Be clear about how well established that is. No taxonomic, extension or botanic garden source separates these three at all — the International Aroid Society, Aroideana, Exotic Rainforest and Aroidpedia do not treat them. What the distinction has is close agreement across five independent specialist and trade sources, one of them a tissue-culture laboratory that propagates all three.7 Useful, and not botanically settled.

Size is similarly unsettled: nursery figures for the cultivar run from 0.6 m to 3 m. The only measured anchor is the species — the RHS gives P. erubescens 2.5–4 m over five to ten years, with leaves to about 40 cm.9

Fun facts

  • The white is a chimera, which is why every cutting is a bet. The plant is built of distinct cell layers, some carrying working chloroplasts and some not, and a bud inherits whatever the layers hold at that point.1011 That is what produces the two behaviours growers actually see: a cutting from an all-green run stays green for good, and a cutting from an all-white run cannot feed itself and dies. White sectors have no functioning chloroplasts12 — they are fed by the green ones.
  • Cut the green shoots out, and do it promptly. Green tissue photosynthesises and variegated tissue subsidises; left alone, the green reversion outgrows the rest and takes the plant with it.13 This cultivar is reported to be the most prone of the three to throwing wholly green leaves,6 which makes the pruning less optional than it sounds.
  • Tissue culture can lose the pattern, and there is a Philodendron study showing it. Shoots regenerated from a single cell layer come out of the chimera as one thing or the other.14 When researchers regenerated Philodendron ‘White Knight’ from petiole explants, most shoots came out plain green with only a subset variegated.15 The same effect has been shown cleanly in another chimeral ornamental, where regenerants segregated into green or albino shoots while non-chimeral controls came true.16 Which is the mechanical reason these plants resist the mass propagation that made every other houseplant cheap.
Light
Bright indirect, and genuinely tolerant of medium light: they hold on at very low levels, but leaf size and colour need a few times more than that. The velvet-leaved species burn in direct sun more readily than the glossy climbers do.
Water
Keep evenly moist without being wet. Water when the top 2-3 cm has dried; the thinner-leaved species wilt visibly and recover quickly, which makes them easy to read.
Humidity
50% is enough for most. The velvet-leaved species want 60-70% and show it immediately when they do not get it.
Temperature
64-81 °F (18-27 °C). Growth stops around 59 °F (15 °C), and chilling damage starts below about 50 °F (10 °C) without any frost.
Substrate
Airy and bark-heavy for climbers; a slightly finer mix with more coir for the crawlers, which root along the surface rather than down.
Fertilizer
A balanced feed at half strength every third watering in growth. Velvet-leaved species are sensitive to over-feeding — the leaf edges go first.
Propagation
Node cuttings for climbers; for crawlers, cut the rhizome between leaves leaving at least one node and one root per piece.
Dormancy
None, but growth slows in winter. Reduce water and stop feeding.
Common problems
  • Yellow leaves with brown wet spots are overwatering; yellow with crisp edges is dry air or underwatering
  • Velvet-leaved species mark if water sits on the leaves
  • Long gaps between leaves and small leaf size mean the plant wants more light or something to climb
  • Thrips are the usual culprit behind stippled, silvery new growth
  • Yellow lesions in a mosaic pattern are a virus: no cure, isolate or discard
  • Every part carries calcium oxalate crystals: the sap irritates skin, and a chewed leaf burns the mouth. Poison-centre records show it is rarely worse than that, but keep it away from pets and children anyway