Monstera deliciosa 'Albo-Variegata'

Monstera albo · Albo variegata

Family
Araceae
Native to
Mexico to tropical America, including the Lesser Antilles
Habit
Hemiepiphytic climber
Also known as
Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana albo-variegata (trade name)

My plant

Where it comes from

Nowhere, in the sense this section usually means. Monstera deliciosa is a described species with a documented range — southern Mexico to Guatemala1 — but the albo is a variegated mutation of it, kept alive by cuttings and nothing else. There is no habitat to reason from. Where the Monstera deliciosa page can tell you the plant is a seedling version of something twenty metres up a tree, this one can only say that the green parts behave that way and the white parts do not behave at all.

Nobody seems to know when or where the mutation first turned up. The dates and nurseries repeated around the houseplant web are not attached to anything I could follow, and the most thorough grower guide I found lists the origin as “unsure”,2 so this page does not repeat them.

Naming and description

The name it is usually sold under — Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana albo-variegata — is a trade label, not a botanical name, and it carries a disagreement worth knowing about. Kew treats Monstera borsigiana, described in 1862, and the variety Engler made of it in 1908 as synonyms of plain M. deliciosa.34 The argument is a century and a half old: Engler kept them apart on thinner stems and smaller, less-perforated leaves, later botanists could not tell them apart, and one read the small form as a juvenile stage that grades into the large one.2 Growers still use “borsigiana” for a smaller, faster-climbing form, and the difference may be there in the pot; it is not a name Kew accepts.

Horticultural authorities write the plant as a cultivar of the species — Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo-Variegata’ — which is how this page names it.56 The RHS lists ‘Variegata’, the cream-and-marbled cultivar, separately and gives it an Award of Garden Merit;7 the albo is the other one, white rather than cream, and arriving in sectors — whole blocks and half-leaves with no chlorophyll in them — rather than as an even dusting.

Fun facts

  • The white parts are a cost, not a feature. White sectors have no working chloroplasts and are fed by the green ones;8 a heavily variegated plant is running a full plant’s metabolism on a fraction of the leaf. That is why variegated cultivars want more light than the plain species,6 and why a plant that goes almost entirely white will starve.
  • Every cutting is a gamble on which cells you took. The variegation is a chimera: the plant is built from cell layers, some carrying the mutation and some not, and a bud inherits whatever those layers hold at that point on the stem.910 Take cuttings from nodes that show white in or around the node, and cut out all-green shoots promptly, because green outgrows variegated.11 A cutting from an all-green run stays green for good; one from an all-white run cannot feed itself.
  • It does not come true from seed. In a layered chimera the gametes come from one cell layer, and in a white-over-green plant that layer is the green one, so the seedlings are plain.1213 It has only ever spread as cuttings, and shoots regenerated from a single layer — which is what some tissue-culture routes do — can lose the chimera outright.13 That is a large part of why it has stayed expensive.

1 thing below differs from general Monstera care.

Light differs from general Monstera care
Needs noticeably more light than the plain species — the white sectors photosynthesise nothing, so the plant is working with less leaf than it looks like it has. Bright but indirect: the usual advice that white tissue scorches more easily is repeated everywhere and documented nowhere I could find, so treat it as caution rather than fact.

General Monstera care: Bright indirect. An east window, or a few feet back from a south or west one. Direct midday sun scorches the leaves; deep shade produces long internodes, small leaves and no fenestration.

Water
Water thoroughly once the top 2-5 cm of mix has dried, then let it drain completely. They tolerate a short dry spell far better than they tolerate sitting wet.
Humidity
Moderate to high. Numbers are hard to source; what is documented is that dry air browns the leaf edges. The link people draw between low humidity and fewer fenestrations is not — light is what decides that.
Temperature
64-84 °F (18-29 °C). Growth stops around 50 °F (10 °C), and chilling damage — wilting, water-soaked patches — starts below about 50 °F (10 °C) without any frost. Keep them off cold glass and out of winter draughts.
Substrate
Chunky and free-draining — roughly equal parts orchid bark, perlite and coir. Straight potting compost holds too much water against the roots.
Fertilizer
A balanced feed at half strength every second or third watering through spring and summer. Little or none through winter.
Propagation
Stem cuttings with at least one node, ideally with an aerial root attached. Roots readily in water, sphagnum or straight into a chunky mix.
Dormancy
No true dormancy, but growth slows markedly in low light and cool temperatures. Cut back watering to match.
Common problems
  • Yellowing lower leaves are usually too much water or too little light, and rarely too little water
  • Crisp brown edges point at dry air, or salts accumulated from feeding
  • New leaves opening without fenestration usually means not enough light
  • Spider mites and thrips establish quickly in dry air — check the undersides
  • Every part carries calcium oxalate crystals: toxic to cats, dogs and children if chewed, and the sap can irritate skin