Alocasia micholitziana 'Frydek'

Frydek variegata · Green velvet alocasia

Family
Araceae
Native to
Philippines (Luzon)
Habit
Rhizomatous perennial

My plant

Where it comes from

Unlike the philodendron hybrids here, this one has a described species behind it and a range on record. Kew accepts Alocasia micholitziana Sander, published in The Gardeners’ Chronicle in 1912, and gives its native range as the Philippines, on Luzon — one island, which is a good deal more precise than the “Southeast Asia” the hobby tends to repeat. Kew lists no synonyms.1 It grows in montane forest at roughly 1,200 to 1,500 metres,1 which is cooler and more even than the lowland tropics and fits its reputation for disliking hot, dry rooms.

‘Frydek’ is a cultivar of that species, and everything about the cultivar happened in cultivation. Which came first is contested. This page used to say the variegated form was a sport of a green ‘Frydek’; the most detailed account I could find — a hobby reference, unsourced at the primary level — has it the other way round: the plain green plant was named ‘Green Velvet’ in the 1980s and later sold as ‘Maxkowskii’, and the name ‘Freydyk’ was first attached in the late 1990s to a variegated plant, then misspelled into ‘Frydek’ by a tissue-culture lab.2 The RHS independently lists A. micholitziana ‘Freydyk’ as a variegated plant.3 Nothing I could open settles it, so take the dates as reported.

Naming and description

micholitziana honours Wilhelm Micholitz, the collector who worked for the Sander nursery that published the species — which is why the species name and the publisher’s name go together.4 The fuller account, came a year later in Curtis’s Botanical Magazine.4

The plain plant is worth describing first: deep matt green, so dark it reads as black in poor light, with a texture closer to velvet than to leaf and bright white main veins running out to each lobe. It is smaller and more upright than its reputation suggests — about half a metre, carrying four to seven leaves at a time.1

The variegated form adds sectors of cream to pale green, distributed unpredictably: whole halves of a leaf on some, fine marbling on others. Like the Monstera albo, this is variegation carried in cell layers rather than a pattern the plant reproduces faithfully, so no two leaves match and a division can inherit more or less of it than the plant it came from.5

Fun facts

  • The velvet is structure, not pigment. The upper skin of a velvet leaf is made of domed, lens-shaped cells that focus incoming light down into the leaf instead of bouncing it back, which is what makes the surface look matt and deep and the veins look lit. That was measured in rainforest shade plants including a velvet-leaf anthurium, and it only reads as velvet when the leaf is dark to begin with.67 Water left sitting on the leaf tends to leave marks; why is not something I could find a source for.
  • Variegated tissue is a cost here more than on most plants. An alocasia already runs a demanding plant on a handful of leaves at a time, and cream tissue photosynthesises little. A heavily variegated one is doing the same job on a fraction of the leaf it appears to have.8
  • Dormancy is not decline — but it is not automatic either. The genus ranges from seasonally dormant to evergreen;9 in a cool, dark winter a plant may drop its leaves and rest on its thick underground stem — a rhizome, not the corm the hobby calls it — and grow back from the base when warmth returns.1011 The RHS lists ‘Freydyk’ as evergreen, which is what it will be in a warm, bright room. Either way, the plant that looks dead in November is usually fine underground — see the Alocasia care defaults and the general plant care page for what to do and, mostly, what not to.
  • It is toxic and can hurt. All parts carry calcium oxalate crystals: painful if eaten, and an irritant to skin and eyes.312
Light
Bright indirect, and more of it than most people give them. They will not tolerate direct midday sun, but too little light produces weak petioles that cannot hold the leaves up.
Water
Water once the top few centimetres have dried through the growing season, and cut back sharply in dormancy — overwatering a resting plant is the main route to rot. Never waterlogged, never bone dry.
Humidity
Medium to high. Dry air browns the leaves and, more reliably than anything else, brings spider mites.
Temperature
64-84 °F (18-29 °C) in growth, and not below about 61 °F (16 °C) while growing. Winter floor 50 °F (10 °C): below that, or in cooler and drier conditions generally, they drop leaves and rest, which is normal rather than fatal.
Substrate
Airy but moisture-retentive — bark and perlite with enough coir or sphagnum that it does not dry out in a day.
Fertilizer
A balanced feed at half strength every third watering through spring and summer. Nothing at all once growth stops.
Propagation
Offsets and the small tubers that form on the rhizome, separated at repotting. They root in damp sphagnum in a closed container.
Dormancy
Expected in a cool, dark winter — though a plant kept warm and bright may stay evergreen. It drops leaves and rests on the rhizome. Keep the mix barely damp, stop feeding, and do not repot; most losses happen when a resting plant is treated as a sick one.
Common problems
  • Sudden leaf loss in autumn is usually dormancy, not death — check the rhizome before discarding anything
  • Spider mites are the defining pest of this genus; inspect leaf undersides weekly in dry air
  • Drooping petioles that do not recover after watering usually mean rot below the soil
  • Guttation — water beading at the leaf edge — is normal and not a symptom
  • Every part carries calcium oxalate crystals: painful if eaten, and an irritant to skin and eyes